From For
the Love of Food, Denis Cotter, Collins, 2011.
I guess nut loaves were fashionable in the
70s and became associated with vegetarians and soon got a bad name because they
were often not overly tasty. So I hesitated before I made this one but I
usually enjoy Denis Cotter’s recipes so thought it was worth a try.
There were basically three parts to it: the
cashew nut base, the pumpkin filler and the sauce.
The base was made with 500g roasted cashews
blitzed until fine. This was mixed with a cooked parsnip that had been mashed.
Into this also went a white onion sautéed with 3 garlic cloves, two chopped
celery sticks, a little ground sage, some fresh thyme leaves, a teaspoon ground
cumin and a good pinch of cayenne pepper. When they had softened, 100ml white
wine was added and brought to the boil. This all then went into the cashew mix.
The mixture was stirred together and breadcrumbs added with salt and pepper. It
became quite a firm but moist mixture. A beaten egg was added and stirred in.
The basic mixture was ready.
The filling was made by roasting 200g
butternut pumpkin. A chopped leek was fried until softened in a little olive
oil. Now some grated ginger, zest and juice of half a lemon was added with the
roasted pumpkin. These were stirred for a couple of minutes to make the pumpkin
break up into a mash with the leek. Some breadcrumbs were added to thicken it
all a little.
Now the loaf could be put together. In a loaf
tin lined with baking paper half of the cashew mix was pressed in. The pumpkin
mixture went over this and was then covered with the remainder of the cashew
mix. It went into a 170ºC oven for about an hour.
The sauce was made by sautéing a chopped red
onion, half a red capsicum, a chopped celery stick, 4 garlic cloves, a chopped
red chilli and a chopped chipotle chilli. After about 10 minutes when they had
softened, 1 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano, 2 teaspoons ground cumin and ground
coriander, and 1 teaspoon ground allspice went into the pan for a minute or two
more. A can of tomatoes and 1 tablespoon tomato puree were added with 200ml red
wine and 500ml vegetable stock. They were simmered for about an hour then passed
through a sieve. At serving time 25g dark chocolate and 40g butter were added.
This made a richly flavoured, Mexican style mole, though far too much sauce for
the loaf. I used some later to add some flavour to a leek and chickpea soup.
The loaf was sliced and served with the
sauce. It was, of course, nutty and a little heavy though the sauce tended to
lighten it somewhat. I especially enjoyed the sweet pumpkin filling. It was the
sauce that made the loaf. It was rich in an overlay of various tastes, spicy,
smoky, chilli heat though the chocolate seemed to have disappeared into it.
Perhaps I would up the quantity a little next time.
Taste: ✔✔✔
Ease of
cooking: ✔✔
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